Tamarin’s fishmonger A profession as old as that of the fisherman. Early in the morning, he is stationed in front of the “Maison des pêcheurs” (Fishermen House), eyes wide open, his scrutinising gaze piercing the ocean. Low tide, high tide, “lahoul” (wave swell), wind direction … everything is analysed, dissected, evaluated. Those criteria determine how fishing will operate on this day. And without the fishmonger, the fishermen won’t see their items on the island’s market stalls. He generally buys everything that is brought back by the pirogues. A small, happy crowd usually hurries to the wharf once the fishermen are back. Beautiful silver tuna are disembarked, eyes already glazed over, fixedly staring at the horizon yet unable to move. The fishmonger’s old hook scale weighs the catch; negotiations are whispered so as not to be overheard. Fish are roughly emptied right there and the luckiest ones get to buy one or two from the catch. The rest is sent to town where they will be sold a day later. No fishing today. The swell is too big; the weather is influenced by a cyclone off the coast of Madagascar. The fishermen make the most of it and use this time to prepare their ballasts for the sunken nets. A big sheet of rusty corrugated iron is cut, wrung and straightened. The fishmonger is among “his men”. Keeping and maintaining the relationship, asking about the children, laughing together… Tomorrow, business is back as usual for the fishmonger.

La Preneuse, retracing the history of a dreaded warship La Preneuse frigate, commanded by Jean-Marthe-Adrien Lhermitte who was nicknamed “Le Brave” (The Brave), was a real source of worry for the British who ruled the oceans at the time. The frigate, heavy and hard to manoeuvre, was back from a mission in the South China Sea in 1798 where she sunk around forty British vessels before heading to Isle de France (Mauritius). The British were guarding Port Louis and La Preneuse frigate, accompanied by the corvette Brûle-Gueule, were immediately chased by five British ships. The French ships took refuge in Black River bay and resisted British assault for three whole weeks. During the battle, Lhermitte, ever the cunning strategist, decided to disembark unused cannons to form a land battery.This step proved to be advantageous to French marines. The beach on which the artillery was disembarked from La Preneuse has been named eponymously. Unfortunately, in 1799, chased once more upon its arrival in Isle de France, La Preneuse is thrust onto the reefs bordering Baie-du-Tombeau. Stuck, cornered by the British, the French have no means of escape. Lhermitte orders the destruction of the ship so that she does not benefit the enemy. La Preneuse rests on the seabed, but her legend lives on.

Lunch break at Vanilla Café Located right on the edge of Black River, 5 minutes from the Villas, a favourite local spot: Vanilla Café, a lush garden filled with tamarind trees, “longan” trees and banyan trees, where one may enjoy lunch (or even breakfast and dinner – recently introduced) in the soothing shade. It is the only place in the region to offer pub-style gourmet lunch outdoors, and with no fuss in an extremely pleasant environment. The welcome is warm and the space convivial. Give the mint iced tea a go, very refreshing in summer. No alcohol is served here, but you may bring your own. The café offers delicious and hearty mixed salads, burgers, sandwiches, panini’s and local dishes… You are likely to come across groups of readers, sharing their treasures, families with babies, calmly sleeping in the shade and rocked gently by a light breeze; such are the people you will meet at Vanilla Café. You can even enjoy a nice book in the quietude of the library or have a drink at the rustic wooden pallet bar. Before you leave, make sure to visit the artisanal shop, Vanilla Village, where local and national artists showcase their products that are suited to all budget and removed from commercial routes.

Keïvan Cadinouche, portraying islands in black and white Between Tamarin Bay where he surfs and paddles, and other Indian Ocean islands that he loves, this French-Mauritian photographer brings his silver film camera everywhere to immortalise slices of life and moments gleaned from daily life, which are sublimated by the silver particles on the film. For more than 15 years now, he has been seeking timelessness on the dusty trails of Madagascar, on the roads of a coastal village in Zanzibar, in the small, dry valleys of Rodrigues, equipped with his backpack and travelling via disparate means of transport… Sharing quality time, communicating despite the language frontier, capturing snippets of life and translating all those into black and white photos. It is, however, his island and Tamarin, where he lives that most inspire him; peaceful villages where life runs smoothly, craft trades which have deserted towns, grace-filled moments when man and nature truly reveal themselves. Keïvan Cadinouche is the author of numerous publications and has held many exhibitions. Limited series printings are sold throughout the world via his website, and you can also like his page and follow him on Facebook.

The Tourelle of Tamarin Its soft and wooded green profile is another of Tamarin’s insignia. This 552m high mountain is the ideal trekking spot for fans as its trails are only mildly difficult. (The area is on private land, the owners must, therefore, be asked for access and they never refuse). Equipped with water and a good pair of shoes, set out early for this 2-hour-long journey in the midst of the private plot of land known as Bélougué. You follow a wooded path before crossing an underwood in which you cross fences by climbing over picturesque wooden ladders. The path is fairly steep for the first half an hour, ensuring you get some good exercise. It is well worth the effort once you start seeing Tamarin unfold. From there you can see the entire bay, from the mythic surf spot, Dale, to the hotels located in Wolmar. You get to admire the river meandering through the foliage before it reaches the sea. You then continue to climb up the mountain slope, between steep rocks and slightly less dense vegetation. After a last bit of effort, you finally reach the summit and its breathtaking panoramic view of the West Coast up until Le Morne, the inland regions, and on the other side, the impressive Black River Gorges and the National Park. A tropicbird flashes white against the clear blue sky, you can feel a slight breeze tickling the back of your neck: enjoy the moment.

Eric Triton, Bluz dan mwa* – I got the bluesOften spotted leaning against a filao tree, facing the bay. His tent opening up onto the ocean. His guitar and himself seemed to enjoy the same sheer pleasure of contemplation. Some would recognise the man and greet him. Eric would smile, the guitar and his hands naturally making one, and his mighty and iconic voice would resound. The deep-rooted Mauritian loves camping and fishing in Tamarin; a love which seems reciprocal. Tamarin  Laba dan lwes  Kot soley al kouse  Pli zoli ki Grand-Baie Ena labe Tamarin  Laba dan lwes  Kot soley al kouse  Zoli vag pou serfe  Marsel kapav rakonte… Over there in the West Where the sun sets Over there in the West There is Tamarin Bay Over there in the West Where the sun sets Nice waves for surfing Marcel could attest of that… Proud to be a Mauritian citizen, the brilliant guitarist and singer sees himself as a Human being over and above all and sings in Creole, French or English. Eric Triton, a musician of international repute, gave a breath of new life to the Sega which is often too commercial, by intertwining the rich sonorities of blues and jazz. *(Le Blues en moi) / Crédit photo : « Music in Africa »

Looking for something picturesque and authentic? Take a breath of fresh air and nature on a refreshing journey along the upper west coast of Mauritius. Drive along the beautiful winding road through the lush nature and enjoy a breathtaking view of the Morne lagoon and the hinterland of Mauritius. Around this secluded village, there are many places of interest to explore during a 100% Mauritian day, from a warm welcome to traditional cuisine, geological curiosities, waterfalls and the heady aroma of local rhums.  Getting some height   The charming mountain road winds its way through the golden green of the Chamarel forest. Gain altitude to discover these wooded expanses which are part of the Black River Gorges National Park. Caution is required if you drive, with a few hairpin bends. Sometimes monkeys, the local macaques, quickly cross the road. After about ten minutes, park at the viewpoint and let yourself be taken in by the majestic panorama beneath you. The emerald green of the forest gradually fades away and is replaced by the soft green of the sugar cane and the turquoise of the Black River Lagoon and Le Morne. The famous mountain turns towards the white sand of its beautiful public beach.  Right next to the viewpoint, the restaurant Le Chamarel welcomes you for a delicious locally grown coffee. You are now ready for the day’s activities.   Meeting the locals in Chamarel   Peaceful and away from the hustle and bustle, the small village of Chamarel, twenty minutes from the Marguery Villas, seems to be wrapped in a loop. Small houses dot the main street. Park your car and explore the surrounding area on foot. The isolation of the village gives it its authentic character and the inhabitants are welcoming and very friendly. Here the land is plentiful and it often rains. As a result, there are many fruit and vegetable fields along the way.   The village is also home to some artisans and artists; do not hesitate to encourage local handicraft. As a hub of the Rastafari culture, you will surely come across authentic Rastas living in community and who will be very happy to share their way of life with you.   Pleasant Creole cuisine experiences in Chamarel   As the area has become a tourist destination, tables d’hôte and small restaurants have opened, offering local cuisine with spicy accents, without any gastronomic claim but purely Mauritian. Eating there is on the one hand to savour a local cuisine, and on the other hand to contribute to the economic development of this isolated region. As many fishermen live in the village, the catch of the day will provide you with some nice special treats. Don’t miss out on the chicken or zourite (octopus) curries in season and enjoy the local vegetables the Mauritian way.  The seven coloured earths   Another must-see destination, the Seven Coloured Earths are a unique world geological phenomenon. The oxidation and the nature of the minerals in this region offer an awesome range of colours. These beautifully undulating earth dunes are no longer directly accessible, but a circular tour enables you to overlook and admire them. You can buy small glass vials containing the famous layered earth as a souvenir. (https://www.chamarel7colouredearth.com/fr )   In addition to the coloured earths the place is also home to giant tortoises of the Aldabra type. To get there, follow the outstanding Chamarel waterfall, easily accessible, whose invigorating waters attract bathers in warm weather.   If you are in search of thrills, visit the ‘Parc Aventure Chamarel’ with its forest adventure course and suspended bridges overlooking breathtaking landscapes.   Chamarel Rhumerie, combining tradition and modernity   Chamarel Rhumerie with its old chimney enables you to discover the distillation process of the famous local rhums, some of which are based on pineapples from the surrounding fields. Visitors are shown the secrets of distillation, the different ingredients needed, the ageing process and, above all, can taste (in moderation) the different local rhums during a guided tour  (https://www.rhumeriedechamarel.com/ ).  An opportunity to take home a few good bottles as gifts!  Chamarel meets all its promises of a change of scenery and authenticity, for a great day of exploration and exciting activities.